Preparing Your Bike

Want to buy a Track Bike?  Try this facebook page.   Want to prepare your bike for the track?  Keep reading.

The essential thing is safety, both for yourself and other riders, so ask questions and make sure your bike is ready before you get to the track. Most motorcycle shops will also assist you with race preparation.

Disclaimer: the information on this site was accurate when written, but things change and you should always check the General Competition Rules (GCR’s) for Road Racing in the latest version of the Manual of Motorcycle Sport (MoMS) 


(Download this Quick Guide on preparing your bike for road racing)


PERSONAL EQUIPMENT:
Whenever you go on the track, you will need these:

  • A helmet bearing a current standards approval sticker
  • Full leathers, one or two piece. Two piece leathers must fasten together with either zips or studs
  • Calf length boots
  • Gloves long enough to overlap the sleeves of your leathers
  • A back protector is not required for ride days but is necessary for racing.

RIDE DAYS:
Bikes do not have to be prepared to the same standard as for racing, but are checked for safety before you can go on the track. The Scrutineer will look at the following items.

  • Brake pads
  • Suspension and levers operate freely
  • Condition of tyres. Slicks, or road tyres with legal tread
  • Tape up all glass (e.g. lights and mirrors) or remove
  • No obvious fluid leaks.
  • No loose panels, bolts or clips.
  • Correct chain tension.

BRACKET RACING:
Bikes have to be prepared the same as for Class Racing.

However, if you have not raced in the last five years, you can race in Brackets only for up to two meetings as a P plate rider with exemptions from several preparation rules. This will allow you to try the sport whilst developing your bike. P plate bikes only have to meet these minimum rules:

  • Tyres designed for highway use must have legal tread. Slicks or wet weather race tyres and warmers can be used.
  • Handlebar ends must be plugged
  • Clutch and brake levers must have the ball ends intact
  • Front brake caliper bolts to be lock wired in the tightened position.
  • Only water allowed in the cooling system.
  • Bike centre and/or side stands should be removed. If not removed must be securely fixed in the up-position by secure mechanical means (e.g. hose clamp or bracket). Wiring, taping or plastic “zip” ties are not considered to be an adequate mechanical method of securing.
  • Sump plugs, caps and filters which, if removed, permit the discharge of any lubricating, cooling or hydraulic fluids must be lock-wired. Where front fork drain plugs are recessed, taping is permitted to prevent loosening.
  • Front brake reservoirs with screw cap closures must be taped to prevent loosening.
  • Mirrors and indicators to be removed.
  • Head and tail lights must be removed or completely taped to prevent light from being seen and to fully contain broken glass in case of accident damage.
  • No gear racks, sacks or panniers.
  • Number / registration plates to be removed.
  • Rider Numbers to be placed on the front fairing, and both sides of the bike.
  • A P plate is displayed at the rear of your bike as an indication to following riders that you are a novice. This plate and fittings is available from the Race Secretary at the event.

CLASS RACING:
The list below is a rough guide to prepare your bike for road racing. A full copy of The Rules can be found in the Manual of Motorcycle Sport

  • Handlebar ends must be plugged
  • Clutch and brake levers must have the ball ends intact
  • Front brake caliper bolts to be lock wired
  • Stands must be removed, check for a cut out switch on the side stand, you may have to tape it up or bypass it to get the bike to run
  • Mirrors and turn indicators removed
  • No gear racks, sacks or panniers
  • Lights should ideally be removed, if not then all glass (and plastic) lenses on the bike should be completely taped
  • Pillion pegs should be held in the up position or removed
  • Brake pads should have plenty of material
  • Apart from slicks, tyres must have good tread, they can wear very quickly during a day on the track.
  • Bearings should be in good condition (e.g. wheel bearings, steering and swing arm)
  • Valve caps should be metal or good quality plastic with seals
  • Chain should be properly adjusted and lubricated and sprockets should be in good condition
  • Only water is allowed in cooling systems
  • Drain plugs and filler caps must be secured in the closed position. These include radiator caps, oil fillers, sump plugs, radiator drain plugs, fork drain plugs and oil filters. With spin on type filters, a hose clamp around the filter tied back to the frame or engine works well. Drains and fillers should ideally be drilled and wired in place. Alternatively they may be wired around, or cleaned and siliconed in place.
  • Brake and clutch master cylinder caps also require secondary retention. Taping is normal practice, but use caution not to block any breather holes as it can cause the brakes to self apply when the fluid heats up.
  • Horn must be disconnected.
  • Registration number plates removed
  • Drain hoses should be captured into a plastic bottle.
  • Protective engine covers fitted
  • Approved Race Numbers must be fitted (as specified in the Rules).

END